Air Suspension Manual Inflation Valves Range Rover P38 Parts Catalog

EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide. Note: Thanks for so many compliments and suggestions for this guide over the past few years. Many of the more interesting questions appear at the bottom of this article, but I am finding it hard to keep up so have had to close off the comments feature. Please ask questions or make suggestions through the P3. Forum at aulro. com (aimed at us Aussies) or rangerovers. P3. 8 owners may benefit from your questions and suggestions.

Preamble and Introduction. The EAS (Electronic Air Suspension) Valve Block is one of those many, many things that Land Rover will charge you a small fortune to replace.

Air Suspension Manual Inflation Valves Range Rover P38 Parts Manual

A major cause of problems associated with the valve block is the o- rings wearing out. Fortunately these can be replaced fairly easily and cheaply. What Land Rover doesn’t tell you in the manual, and most independent workshops don’t know, is that the EAS Valve Block and Compressor should be treated as a 1- 2 year maintenance item. Instead they get neglected, and when something fails these absolutely brilliant vehicles get branded as unreliable. Of course it doesn’t help that even a small failure in the EAS will usually lead to the car sitting on the bump stops. From an owner’s view point, all the more reason to know what needs to be done, and how often to do it.

Knowing how to reset the air suspension on your Range Rover can help save money as well as improve the comfort of your car. The EAS ECU that your Range Rover has is. After two and a half years of messing about with the Air Suspension on my 1996 Range Rover 4.6 HSE I had had a serious sense of humour failure. Mechanical and Electrical Upgrades. Introduction Air Conditioning Upgrade Air Intake Filter & Box Upgrade for More Horsepower (P38) Air Intake Upgrade for LPG Range.

When I did my first EAS Valve Block rebuild a few years ago, it seemed there must be a leak from inside the EAS Valve Block as I could not detect any external leaks using the “soapy water” spray method. This was in the days before I owned Hard. Range. com and had plenty of my own EAS O- rings Kits to play with, so I purchased a kit and after- market Diaphragm from Dennis at Rover Renovations (sadly, no longer in business). The instructions at Range. Rovers. net were an inspiration for me, but I found them a bit lacking for keen amateurs such as myself.

I took lots of photos so I could remember how to put things back together again. I then put some words around selected photos and created this page to share with others. The first version of this article was well received by other P3. AULRO. com and Range. Rovers. net so it seemed like a good idea to maintain it with more information, better photos, and input from other P3. I make no apologies that my EAS system looks a little different than most, as I run an air- locker regulator, on- board air kit, and EAS Emergency Bypass Kit.

My basic EAS setup is the same as standard, however you may see a few extra tee- pieces and air lines when browsing through my photos below. A PDF version of this page may be downloaded for off- line viewing and printing from http: //hardrange. Paul. P3. 8A- EAS- VB- Renew. Be Warned: this is only an 8.

MB file, but it contains 3. A4 size.)The PDF version may not be as current as this page. Preparation. A complete set of o- rings for the valve block from  Hard Range. A diagnostics tool such as EAS Unlock Suite , Nanocom Evolution or Fault.

Air Suspension Manual Inflation Valve. The majority of the Range Rover air suspension components are connected via 6mm flexible air lines, so. Search the world's information, including webpages, images, videos and more. Google has many special features to help you find exactly what you're looking for. Note: Thanks for so many compliments and suggestions for this guide over the past few years. Many of the more interesting questions appear at the bottom of this.

Mate to de- pressurise the EAS and then to test it afterwards. Assortment of spanners, screwdrivers, pliers, cleaning fluids and rags.

A small crotchet needle, brass wire or brazing rod to remove the o- rings. A few hours to spare, plenty of coffee/tea and suitable background music. It may also help with troubleshooting issues before and after the procedure. At the right side of the diagram is a representation of the wiring to each solenoid. This should be handy if you forget to mark the solenoids before removing them. A PDF version of this diagram may be downloaded from http: //hardrange.

The pages on Common Classic Range Rover Problems and Fixes, Common Range Rover P38 Problems and Fixes and Common Mark III Range Rover Problems and Fixes cover.

EAS- Valve. Block- v. Cleaning the removed bits and pieces. I just used a clean rag sprayed with a bit of WD- 4. Some folks reckon that cleaning the block with soapy water and letting it dry slowly in a warm (not hot) oven also works. For the airways, I used a can of computer keyboard compressed air to blow out any dust and WD- 4. For the plastic case, you can’t go past Windex (or similar) glass cleaner in my view.

I didn’t worry about trying to make the plastic bits too clean as they are just going to get filthy again real soon. Removing the EAS unit. De- pressurise the EAS system using your tool of choice. I really like the EAS Unlock Suite from Storey Wilson.

If you have an EAS Emergency Bypass Kit (EBK) fitted, you can purge the last bit of air in the system through the inflation valves. You may elect to be extra safe, and remove the valve stems so there is no way that pressure can build up in the system. IMPORTANT: after de- pressurising the EAS, leave the ignition switched off until you finish this procedure and have reconnected the electrics.

Otherwise you are likely to generate an EAS “Hard Fault” which you will need to clear with a diagnostics tool or by a dealer. The next photo shows the air line connections to the EAS box. If you don’t have an EBK fitted, ignore the tee- pieces. A top view of the EAS housing with the cover removed.

Never mind that I’ve got an over- sized air compressor in mine, the process is the same for a regular unit. Location of the two screws that secure the Cruise Control unit. You need to remove these to get easy access to the bolt at the rear of the EAS that holds the valve block and driver unit in place. Remove the three nuts holding the compressor in place. If these three nuts have been over- tightened before (don’t ask!), a bit of WD- 4. If it is still tight, use a set of pinch- nosed pliers to hold the metal collar of the vibration mount while you unscrew the nut.

Lift the compressor a little to get access to the air line below. Use a 1. 2mm spanner to undo the brass olive nut holding the air line in place. Disconnect the compressor wiring harness from the casing, and then disconnect the multi- plug. With the compressor removed. Ignore the tee- piece on the air line in the photo below, it is part of my custom setup.

Use a flat blade screwdriver to unclip the wiring harness from the casing. Slide the retaining clip to the side to release the wiring loom.

Remove the second retaining clip and unplug the wiring connectors. Unscrew the exhaust valve filter/silencer and put aside. Use a screwdriver or needle- nose pliers to depress the collets on the airlines going in to the housing and pull out the air lines. I should advise you to label each of the air lines so you know which one goes where.

However, I found that mine line up pretty well with the case and not much guesswork is involved. It is advisable to cap off the exposed air lines to prevent dust and moisture entering. The picture below with the air lines pulled aside gives better visibility of two (out of 3) bolts that hold the valve block in place. Use an 8mm socket or spanner to remove the two bolts on the air line side of the housing, and another bolt at the rear near the cruise control unit. Remove the two cable clips on the side of the case to make it easier to remove the valve block. A flat screwdriver blade or fingernail at the back of the clips will help them pop right off. With the clips removed, three bolts removed and wiring connectors disconnected, the valve block and driver unit should slide straight out.

The removed unit on the bench ready for further disassembly. The brass fitting is the pressure relief valve.

The green one is the pressure switch. I DO RECOMMEND numbering the solenoid covers so you remember which one goes where. If you get mixed up, use the diagram at the beginning of this guide to work it out.

Remove the wiring loom/connector from the bottom of the unit. Use a 1. 4mm spanner to unscrew the pressure switch (optional). Remove the driver unit by undoing the four Allen key bolts, and disconnect the plug with the blue wires to it. Noting the orientation of the solenoid covers, remove the five on top and two underneath the block. Note the orientation of the solenoid bases for re- installation, and the small Diaphragm Solenoid at the right.

The solenoid bases are held in by two screws each. On my 1. 99. 9 P3. P3. 8 they are Phillips head. Remove each of the solenoids and place them with their corresponding covers for safe- keeping. Alternatively, number them as you did for the solenoid covers. As you remove each solenoid base, note the two o- rings underneath.

Turn the block over to remove the final two solenoids, and the four Allen- head bolts that hold the diaphragm block in place. The inlet solenoid and diaphragm block removed.

Don’t lose that spring. Remove the old diaphragm and o- ring from the diaphragm block. Gently remove the metal cap from the diaphragm. NOTE: If you are replacing the original diaphragm with the “orange disc” diaphragm from Hard Range, you will be substituting both the metal cap and the rubber diaphragm with the single orange disc.

The spring from the original diaphragm is re- used with the “orange disc” diaphragm. At the other end of the valve block, remove the four Allen head bolts. Carefully remove the block to reveal the Non- Return Valves (NRV).

Note the orientation of the NRV’s for reassembly. Remove the NRV’s and o- rings.

Turning the block on its side, prise out each of the collets with a small flat screwdriver blade. Fish out the two o- rings from each of the holes that the collets were in (for the keen- eyed. The logic behind this is that the screwdriver is harder than the block and may damage or score the hole. Replacing the o- rings.

The o- ring kit should more than enough o- rings to replace all the o- rings in your valve block, plus a few extras in case you make a mistake. Generally, it is a good idea to coat the o- rings with o- ring lube or some Vaseline to assist in sealing. The order of replacement is up to you. This is how I did mine. Before inserting the new o- rings, give each of the holes a good clean and remove any dirt and residue with a cotton bud or other clean material. Starting at the Non- Return Valve (NRV) end of the block, replace the o- rings on the NRV’s. Use a small flat head screwdriver to remove the old o- ring and slide the new ones in place (Bag D in the Hard Range kit).

NRV’s reinstalled with new o- rings.

Guide To Understanding Air Suspension. A sea- change in hot- rod suspensions is sweeping across the scene: replacing conventional metal suspension springs with air springs, often controlled by sophisticated air compressors and self- leveling electronics.

Whether it’s for looks, easy ride- height alterations on the fly, handling improvements, or better load- carrying ability, air suspensions combined with huge wheels and tires are more mainstream than ever. To get the lowdown on air suspension, HOT ROD consulted leading air suspension specialists, including Air Ride Technologies’ Bret Voelkel and Total Cost Involved’s (TCI) Sal Solorzano. These outfits are among the leaders in bringing practical, bolt- on air- suspension technology to the hot- rodding mainstream. They shared their expertise on what it takes to install a first- rate air suspension on your hot rod. What It Is. An air suspension replaces conventional springs with air springs similar to those on big 1. Conventional coil- spring suspensions are the easiest to upgrade, with the airbags slipping right in place of the coil springs and often bolting to proprietary bolt- in brackets supplied by the aftermarket manufacturer.

Air- spring design has progressed to the point that pioneer companies like Air Ride Technologies, TCI, Air Lift, and others have developed bolt- on kits for most popular coil- spring cars and trucks. There are even air- spring solutions for leaf- spring and torsion- bar suspensions. Why You Want One. An air suspension offers at least five major benefits: Tunability: Air suspensions have a wide tuning range for spring rate and load capacity.

Weeks of conventional spring and shock tuning can be painlessly compressed into a few minutes via in- car adjustability. Getting the ride height, load, and rate on a coil spring right on the first try is a hit- and- miss affair, but an air suspension provides a much broader envelope, so precise selection isn’t as critical as on a conventional spring. Handling: Most air springs are progressive.

The more they compress, the stiffer they get. Combine this inherent progressive spring rate with in- car adjustability, and the result is enormous performance potential. Tuning for conditions is quicker and faster. In a sophisticated handling application, the air spring should be coupled with shocks adjustable for both rebound and compression and carefully selected antisway bars. Performance customization: Everyone has his own personal idea of how his car should ride and handle. With an air suspension, these wishes can be accommodated with little or no component changes. By adjusting air pressure and shock valving, you can make the same car be soft and comfortable, firm and tight .

You can drive the car comfortably to the track, firm up the air pressure and shock valving to go racing, then readjust the pressure and valving to return home in comfort. Stance: Air suspensions make it easy to lower the car so you can look cool. At the far end of the coolness spectrum are spark- throwing minitrucks and lowriders, but today, they represent only a small segment of the market. Far more typical is the guy who just wants to lower his car or truck a reasonable amount for better looks without sacrificing any driveability or durability. Most kits come set up to deliver a normal ride height that’s several inches lower than the stock springs.

Regardless of how low the car is, air suspensions make it easy to raise the car back up for normal cruising, getting into gas stations, or even rolling onto the trailer. Load carrying: This is the original commercial application for air suspensions: helping 1. Although probably not the main reason for switching over on a pure hot rod, it definitely is one solution for making your dualie tow truck more driveable under varying- load conditions. In fact, some new SUVs now come with air suspensions.

Air- Spring Design. Today, most air springs are made by Firestone, which pioneered their use on big trucks. Three basic types of air springs are available: the double- convoluted, the tapered- sleeve, and the rolling- sleeve. The double- convoluted design looks like a large double cheeseburger and generally has more load capacity, a shorter stroke, and a more progressive spring rate that’s best suited for use on most front suspensions where the spring sits considerably inboard of the suspension’s load point, which has the effect of multiplying load- capacity requirements while dividing travel requirements. Tapered- and rolling- sleeve air springs are smaller in diameter with a longer stroke and a more linear spring rate; they’re best suited for most rearend applications because there are more travel requirements and fewer load- capacity requirements.

Front Suspension. Shock relocation was usually required with most first- generation air- spring setups because there was no hollow area in the air spring’s center to accommodate the stock shock- absorber mounting location that typically ran through the center of the coil spring. Kits designed for conventional air springs come with shock- relocation mounts and new control arms as needed.

This is an affordable and straightforward solution, but in some instances, relocating the shock can result in wheel/tire clearance issues, especially with today’s huge wheel- and- tire packages. As air suspensions evolved, a higher- end installation was developed based on coilover shock/spring combos but with an airbag replacing the coilover’s coil spring. These setups tend to be more expensive but offer the advantage of easier installation, better looks, and more wheel- and- tire clearance. On the other hand, depending on the chassis, a coilover- like design could yield less overall wheel travel compared with a separate air spring and shock setup.

Reduced wheel travel requires a stiffer bag to avoid bottoming out the suspension at a given ride height. Under these circumstances, if ultimate ride quality is paramount, a separate bag and shock setup might be preferable. Rear Suspension. For cars already equipped with rear coils, changing over to airbags is straightforward. They often go right where the old springs used to sit, although in some cases, different spring seats may be needed (if so, they come in the kit).

Shock- within- airbag designs are available as well, but additional mods may be required to install them. Leaf- spring cars have two options. The simplest conversion is to remove several leaves from each spring pack and install air springs between the axlehousing and the vehicle frame. Residual leaves are still needed to locate the rear axle, but airbags now perform the primary load- bearing function. On an old car with worn- out leaf springs of uncertain durability and capability, the plan (if you can afford it) is to replace them entirely by moving up to a four- link suspension.

Major aftermarket outfits offer premade conversion kits that bolt right into popular leaf- spring cars with only minor welding required for new brackets on the axlehousing. Universal weld- in setups are offered for race cars and custom applications.

Depending on the physical constraints of the chassis layout and body clearance, the four- link kits’ upper links may be either triangulated or parallel in relation to the lower links. Generally, parallel four- links fit better in trucks, while triangulated setups are more suitable for cars.

For some chassis, both parallel and triangulated four- link configurations are available. Download Programmi Hack Pokemon Gba Hacked. If you have a choice, a handling or primarily street- driven vehicle usually performs better with a triangulated four- link; a parallel setup is generally the ticket for a pure drag- racer/straight- line application. Compressors. At their most basic level, air springs can be inflated using external shop air just like an old air shock, but that obviates one of the main benefits of this type of suspension: in- use adjustability to compensate for changing road conditions, vehicle loads, or intended use. Every time you add load without on- board air- be it fuel, people, or cargo- you have to track down an air hose.

Realizing full benefits from the adjustability offered by air springs really requires an on- board air source. With air suspension, ride- quality tuning is accomplished incrementally, with very small air- pressure changes. Air springs have relatively low volume, so it is difficult to inflate or deflate them with external air in small enough increments to fine- tune ride quality. An on- board air system consists of at least one air compressor, probably a storage tank, and some sort of control system.

A cost- effective and relatively simple solution that provides reasonable ride and handling benefits would be a 2- gallon tank kept full by a single compressor. On the other hand, if you want the car to go up and down in two seconds, on a heavy car it could take as much as a pair of 1. Yet such an extreme setup could create just as many fine- tuning hassles as a basic external- fill setup: On a fast- acting system, every push of the button may result in a 2. Air Lines. Commercial, DOT- approved, plastic air lines originally developed for big trucks are standard in most kits. They provide an easy, affordable solution to connecting the compressors to the air springs. Typical operating pressures range from about 7. For the custom look, you can fabricate stainless hard line, just as in a brake or fuel system, connecting it using typical AN flare nuts and pipe adapters.

At suspension travel points, flexible hose would be needed in an otherwise hard- lined system, just as it is in a brake system. Also like in a brake system, braided stainless steel Teflon- core hose is preferred over braided synthetic rubber- core fuel/oil- line hose. Two- Way Versus Four- Way. When air suspension was first introduced to hot rodders in the mid- ’9. In other words, both air springs on each axle were hooked together.

This kept things simple, requiring only one control valve per axle.